The Tre Cime di Lavaredo Hike from Bagni di San Guiseppe

by Chris Heckmann
Tre Cime di Lavaredo

If you’re heading to the Dolomites for the Tre Cime di Lavaredo hike and looking to learn more, then you’ve come to the right place! This page will discuss how to hike Tre Cime di Lavaredo from Bagne di San Guiseppe, a small town to the north.

This hike adds on an overnight camping experience in the mountains on top of the standard Tre Cime route. After reading through this information, you’ll be convinced that you want to do the entire extended hike!

The Dolomites are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. These are the Italian Alps at the far northeastern corner of Italy. The mountains are steep and jagged, rocks sticking up into the sky above the trees. At the base of the mountains you’ll find charming little villages with guest houses decorated with that typical Alps architecture you see in Switzerland. 

Everywhere in the Dolomites is simply amazing, but the crown jewel of these mountains is the hike to Tre Cime di Lavaredo, three sharp rock peaks that jut out of the ground, rising far above the valley floor below.

It’s possible to drive to the base of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo and walk around from there, but if you want a real adventure try this overnight hiking trip to the Tre Cime from the town of Bagni di San Giuseppe. 

We spent two nights high in the mountains and hiked a total of about 17 miles (27km) to and around the Tre Cime and back. This post will cover this less popular route we took to hike to Tre Cime di Lavaredo.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo Hike
Alpine lake high in the Dolomites

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The Tre Cime di Lavaredo Hike – What You Need to Know

What is Tre Cime di Lavaredo?

Tre Cime di Lavaredo is a mountain range of three sharp peaks in the Dolomites of northern Italy. When someone says “Tre Cime”, they’re referring to the three peaks, though the mountains stretch in every direction and are impressive all around. 

“Dolomiti” in Italian refers to a type of carbonate rock found in Italy. There are other “dolomiti” in the country, for example down in Castelmezzano in south Italy. But if someone says “dolomiti” or “Dolomites”  you can assume they’re referring to the northern Italian mountains.  

Where is the Tre Cime?

Tre Cime di Lavaredo is in northeast Italy near the border with Austria in Parco Naturale Tre Cime. It’s not exactly close to any particular city, but there are many towns and villages in the region.

The Tre Cime di Lavaredo hike can be started from the base of the mountain at Rifugio Auronzo, but this page discusses how to do an extended hike through the mountains that includes the famous Tre Cime loop.

How to get there

A vehicle is really needed in this part of Italy. There is bus service in the Dolomites, though, if you need to go that route. It will take you ages to get anywhere but you can plan your journey with South Tyrol transportation

Ideally, you’ll be driving to the Dolomites. The closest airports are Bolzano, Verona, Venice or Innsbruck (Austria). The drive from Milan is pretty nice too, just a bit long, though if you’re coming from outside of Europe, Milan is better connected to the rest of the world. 

For renting cars in Europe we use rentalcars.com. You can find a great deal on a rental car from Venice – or anywhere else – using the search bar below. 

And if you’ve never driven in Europe before, be sure to read my guide to driving in Europe for first-timers before you go.

Parking

We parked our car at Parkplatz Fischlienbodenhutte near Hotel Dolomitenhof. It will cost you 5 EUR per 24 hours, which is a great deal, and it’s safe and secure. Though as most popular hikes in the summer, either get there really early to beat the rush, or later in the day after the early morning hikers have finished. It’s not a huge lot.

Fees

There is no fee to do the hike discussed in this post or to enter the national park. There is a fee of 30 EUR to drive the road to Refugio Auronzo, which is at the base of Tre Cime di Lavaredo and where most people park. You won’t do that if you follow our hiking route though. So essentially, it’s 30 EUR to visit unless you do the long hike we discuss in this post.

Camping and Rifugios

Backcountry camping is technically forbidden in the national park (and all of Italy actually) and there are no campsites in the immediate vicinity. That being said, there is sort of an unspoken agreement between hikers and the authorities that if you set up camp after dark and are packed up by 7 AM or so, you won’t be bothered and you won’t bother anyone else. So you will see people camping here and there. 

Just know that if you are caught there can be fines of up to 500 euros. If you do decide to camp, we strongly recommend not setting up till after dark. We also recommend going northeast of Rifugio Locatelli to camp, where there are a lot less people.

So due to this, I recommend you book Rifugio Locatelli through its website. A rifugio is a simple Italian mountain hut with limited services. We ended up camping, and felt it was worth the risk, though.

Fitness levels

This hike is strenuous and will require a basic level of physical fitness. It should only be attempted by seasoned hikers. If you’re worried the hike might be too difficult for you, the standard Tre Cime di Lavaredo loop from Rifugio Auronzo is probably a better option, as it has a lot less uphill climbing.

Weather and when to do the hike

Camping in  mountains near Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Our campsite for the first night of the hike

The weather up high in the Dolomites is hit or miss. You can have great weather with clear blues skies one minute and be stuck in a downpour the next. The mountains do what they want so come prepared for anything.

The trails won’t be passable until around June, making late June to September your window for doing the hike. It will be crowded near the Tre Cime peaks, but you’ll see few people on the way to Rifugio Locatelli.

Where to stay around Bagne di San Guiseppe

Depending on what time you start and finish your hike, you might want to spend a night in and around Bagni di San Guiseppe. Unfortunately most of the hotels in the region are catered to longer stays and don’t allow short stays of one or two nights. 

The hike starts from Hotel Dolomitenhof, but you’ll have to contact the hotel directly for a one night stay. Below are some additional recommendations for hotels in the area that accept one night stays.

Where to stay in Bagne di San Guiseppe

Hotel Rosengarten

Hotel Monika

Rotwandwiesen Chalets SKI IN/OUT

A mix of cultures

This is an area of Italy where German might be the first language of many of the locals. A coworker of mine was from the Dolomites and looked and spoke German. The buildings are typical Alps architecture. It looks more like Austria than Italy in a traditional sense, but the food is mainly Italian. Tre Cime is also known by its German name Drei Zinnen.

Travel insurance

If you’re going hiking high in the mountains you’ll want to consider purchasing travel insurance so that you’re protected for the unexpected. We use World Nomads when we travel internationally. Word Nomads provides coverage to travelers in over 100 countries. You can search for a coverage plan using the link below.

The Hike to Tre Cime di Lavaredo

The route of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo hike from Bagni di San Giuseppe is shown in the map below. In total you’ll cover about 28 km (17.5 miles), depending on any side trips you make. We did the trek over two nights, but you could easily do it with only spending one night camping.

Love overnight hikes? Then you might enjoy the Ice Lake Hike in southwest Colorado!

Hike Day 1

Our plan was always to start in the evening after dinner so that we could get a couple hours of hiking in and set our tent up after dark. We came equipped with headlamps and flashlights which made this doable. If you start the hike late like us you will enjoy peace and quiet on the trail. 

The hike starts from Hotel Dolomitenhof, where you’ll park and leave your car overnight. The trail starts as a peaceful walk through a dry river bed. You pass a rifugio nestled peacefully between the mountain peaks which has clean flowing water available. 

Beer garden views on Tre Cime di Lavaredo hike
Not a bad place for a beer

Leaving the rifugio you start to ascend. The steps start now and your pace will naturally slow. It’s a pretty strenuous trek for the next hour or two as you climb up the valley towards the Tre Cime. 

If you are in good shape you won’t have any issues, but if you don’t do regular exercise it will be difficult. The last hour we walked was in the dark. We couldn’t wait till the next morning to see it all in daylight.

It is hard to find a flat surface off the trail, as it is so steep, but we managed to find one not too far below the meadow and lakes above us. If you are going the camping route, allow at least 2.5-3 hours hiking from the parking lot so that you can get up to the flatter area closer to the Tre Cime. If you’re going to the rifugio, allow at least 3-4 hours to get there.

Either way, the views we had in the morning when the sun came out were fabulous. We were surrounded by towering peaks of granite looking down upon us. Truly one of the coolest spots I’ve ever woken up at!

Hike Day 2

From our campsite it was a little bit further up the steep trail until we came to a bit of a meadow, where the steepness eased and a pleasant uphill climb followed. There are three lakes up here, with one a bit off the path and two easily accessible. 

As we came up to the lakes we saw our first glimpse of the tops of the Tre Cime. We pushed through to Rifugio Locatelli and were rewarded with a wonderful view of the Tre Cime, the clouds circling around giving us all sorts of different shades of color on the rocks. It was truly a sight to behold, definitely the most rewarding hike I’ve done in the Alps.

It was still relatively early in the morning when we got to Refugio Locatelli. Our plans for the rest of the day involved doing the standard Tre Cime Loop hike. 

Italian Dolomites in the clouds
Views along the Tre Cime loop

The loop itself is up and down, one gorgeous view after another. From Rifugio Locatelli, you head towards the 3 peaks, then around them and back the other way to Locatelli. 

As you go around the 3 peaks you’ll pass Rifugio Auronzo. This is where nearly everyone else starts and ends their Tre Cime loop hike. For you it will be the midpoint though. There’s a little restaurant and bar should you wish to stop for food (or a beer).  

The Tre Cime loop is a super popular hike, mainly because it’s so ridiculously beautiful. But it never actually gets overly busy since parking is limited. Still, though, in peak summer afternoons expect it to be crowded. 

For an awesome view of the 3 peaks, there are some small lakes at the base of the peaks – tagged on Google Maps as Sorgenti Fiume Rienza – that offer a really cool angle. Other than that, the view from Rifugio Locatelli is pretty unbeatable.

Surprise Storms

Come prepared for all temperatures and all seasons when doing the Tre Cime di Lavaredo hike. It can be sunny and hot one minute and cold and raining the next. We ended up sitting at Rifugio Auronzo for an hour waiting for a summer downpour to stop. Don’t do this hike without your rain gear!

Tre Cime peaks from down below the mountains
View from Sorgenti Fiume Rienza

Dinner in the mountains

If you’re not carrying a camping stove and your own food then you’ll want to eat at Rifugio Locatelli. Luckily they have a decent restaurant. It’s not what anyone will consider fine Italian food. But what do you expect? You’re high in the mountains here!

The prices are far higher than you see in general in Italy, but that’s due to the difficulty in getting food there. And the food isn’t really worth the price. But you’re here for the views, not the food. 

We had a beer after dinner and watched the skies grow dark in the Dolomites. After dark we headed back down to the meadow and set up camp near one of the lakes, a great day at the Tre Cime in the books.

Hike Day 3

The next day we bid farewell to the Tre Cime di Lavaredo and started our journey back down to our car. As we walked down we thought to ourselves, “man, we hiked up all this way in the dark!?” It took a while to get back, but we were back at the car by noon, meaning we were out on the trail for a total of about 40 hours. 

Again, it’s possible to do it much faster, or even slower. It really just depends on how long you want to spend up in the mountains.

For reviews of the hike we did and a detailed trail map be sure to check out the trail on AllTrails using this link: first part of the hike. The standard loop around the Tre Cime di Lavaredo can be found here.

An Alternative Way to do the Hike

As I mentioned before, it’s also easy to do this hike with only spending one night camping. If you start the hike in the morning, there will be ample time to hike up and around the Tre Cime, spend the night, and hike down the next day. We chose to spend two nights in the mountains to really get away from it all and be one with nature a bit longer.

Other Spots to Hit in The Dolomites

There is endless beauty in the Dolomites. You will probably do the Tre Cime di Lavaredo hike in conjunction with some other activities in the Dolomites. Some other amazing places that you might want to consider are listed below.

  • Santa Magdalena: a beautiful village with with some amazing views of sharp peaks over an isolate church (see photos below)
  • Hike to Gschnagenhardt-Alm: a rifugio above Santa Magdalena
  • Lago di Landro: easy to see as it’s on the side of a main road
  • Lago di Carezza: a famous Instagram photo you’ve seen of dense pine trees between a clear mountain lake and jagged granite peaks
  • Seekofel: hike to the top of a mountain in the heart of the Dolomites
  • Lago di Braies: another lake you’ve seen photos of, sad I missed this one
Church of St. John in the Italian Dolomites
Church of St. John – Evening Sun
Church of St. John in the Italian Dolomites
Church of St. John – Overcast
Pro Tip: Pay attention when driving: lot of Italians take their motorcycles on these windy road and drive pretty recklessly, so be vigilant

Tre Cime di Lavaredo – FAQs

How long does it take to hike Tre Cime di Lavaredo?

The standard Tre Cime di Lavaredo loop hike takes about 2-4 hours, depending on how fit you are and how many stops you make. It’s 10km (6.3 miles) with about a 470m (1530 ft) elevation gain, so judge that based on your own fitness level. 

The Tre Cime hike from Bagna di San Giuseppe described in this post is 23km (14.5 miles) with a 1440m (4724 ft) elevation gain. This obviously takes a lot longer. It can be done in one day, but it’s best separated into multiple days of hiking.

What is the most famous hike in the Dolomites?

The most famous hike in the Dolomites is without a doubt the Tre Cime di Lavaredo hike. Specifically, the loop that starts and ends at Rifugio Auronzo.

Is Tre Cime worth it? 

A visit to Tre Cime di Lavaredo is absolutely worth it. It’s without a doubt one of the most beautiful places in all of Europe and it’s worth the hike to see it from all angles.

What is the best month to hike in the Dolomites? 

Hiking season in the Dolomites is limited to between June and October(ish). It really depends on how much winter snow has fallen and when the snow starts back up again. The best months are July and August. Those are, of course, also the busiest. 

Chris Heckmann and Nimarta Bawa on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Hike in Italy
Mountain views for days

Final Word

The Tre Cime di Lavaredo hike from Bagni di San Giuseppe will reward you with amazing views and an unforgettable trip. It’s a tough hike, but the views of the Tre Cime after hours of climbing a mountain will make it all worth it. 

After the hike, explore the Dolomites by car. It’s simply a special place. Everywhere you look is stunning. You will love it. Just bring cash and don’t expect the most amazing food you’ll ever have if you’re dining high in the mountains!

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2 comments

Jarka November 29, 2023 - 4:30 am

Hi, I am quite shocked, that you, being an American, admit camping in a national park and also suggest other people to do so… I find it not only arrogant but also ignorant. Have you ever realized that Europe is much much smaller and more densely populated and the natural beauties are more precious for us, Europeans, than for you, Americans? And I do believe that as a foreign visitor, you should respect the laws, rules and regulations and not to inspire others who might be reading your blog to break them. I wish you consider being less disrespectful in future.

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Chris Heckmann November 30, 2023 - 1:05 pm

Hello Jarka,
Thank you for your comment. I hear what you are saying, and I agree I could have made it more clear that freedom camping is prohibited. I’ve reworded it a bit to stress that more. However, I do believe it’s important to explain how people do camp in the mountains, which many people do without any problems. The only way we learned about it was reading other people’s experiences. Then the reader can make their own choice as to whether or not it’s worth the risk. I don’t agree that natural wonders are more previous for Europeans than Americans, though. Quite the opposite, I’d argue. The US is far better at protecting it’s natural wonders than any European country is, and places like the Grand Canyon, Zion, and Yellowstone, etc are the pride of our country.

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