Are you headed to Genoa and the beautiful coast of the Italian Riviera in Liguria and wondering what to see and do? Then you’ve come to the right place. In this article we will go through everything there is to know about visiting this spectacular part of northern Italy.
The Italian Riviera is a region that is often overlooked by Americans and international travelers alike when thinking about an Italian holiday. No, not Cinque Terre, that’s plenty popular, and simply amazing by the way. I’m talking about the Italian coast from Genoa to Portofino, commonly known as the Ligurian Riviera.
This is a region where you can’t believe ancient civilizations chose to settle. There isn’t a flat piece of land to be seen. Mountains come right out of the sea and stretch into the clouds above.
The capital of the Liguria region is Genoa, and in this post I’ll discuss how to visit Genoa as well as Portofino and Camogli, two charming coastal villages that are similar but oh so different. So read on to discover the Italian Riviera in Liguria!
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Genoa and the Italian Riviera – What You Need to Know
What is the Italian Riviera?
Liguria is a region of Italy known for mountainous terrain, beautiful fishing villages and pesto. The Italian Riviera stretches pretty much the entire coast, but here we focus on Genoa, Portofino, and Camogli. At about 575,000 inhabitants, Genoa is the 6th largest city in Italy.
Where is the Italian Riviera?
The Italian Riviera is in Northwest Italy, not far from Monaco and Nice. Genoa is about a 2 hour drive or train from Milan. Portofino is about 45 minutes from Genoa by car and Camolgi sits between the two.
How to get there
There is an airport in Genoa, but it is regional in the sense that it doesn’t do long haul flights and European destinations are limited. You can fly into Genoa or Milan, or if you’re coming from elsewhere in Italy, Liguria is well connected by the Italian rail system.
From Genoa you can take public transportation to Portofino and Camogli, or drive if you have a rental car. For the best deals on rental cars in Italy we use Rentalcars.com. You can book your rental in Italy using the search bar below.
Before renting a car in Europe for the first time be sure to check out my tips for driving in Europe.
When to visit
The weather varies greatly depending on the season. Whereas southern Italy stays pretty nice year round, here in northern Italy it’s a bit more erratic. Summers are warm and sunny but winter can be really rainy and chilly, though hardly ever very cold as it’s on the coast. For the best weather and when to avoid Italian tourists on summer holiday September, October, May and June are a good bet.
Portofino is very small and can get crowded with rich tourists on their yachts so avoiding peak summer is always good there.
How to get around
It might be the digital age, but Genoa still doesn’t have Uber or a ride sharing service. You’ll have to hail an old fashioned taxi for a quick ride. Just be aware that taxis can be extremely difficult to come by late on a Friday or Saturday night. Genoa also doesn’t have a bike share service like is common in so many cities today.
Its public transport system is also not quite as developed as Rome or Milan and other major Italian cities. There is an underground metro, but there are only a few stops, connecting the two main train stations on each side of the city.
There is bus service in Genoa and you can buy bus fare at various newspaper stands, known as edicolas. If you’re staying downtown though, you should be good walking just about everywhere.
Between villages on the Ligurian coast there is excellent train service. Though note that Portofino is really hidden away and the train does not go there. You have to catch a bus from Santa Margherita Ligure.
Where and how long to stay
If you have unlimited money to spend then by all means stay in Portofino. If you’re not looking to drop $400 on a hotel room Genoa has many affordable hotels and Airbnb’s. I recommend staying by the medieval city center in Genoa. Some hotel options are given below.
Where to stay in Genoa:
You can spend forever on the coast of Liguria and not get bored. If you want to hit Genoa, Portofino and Camogli, the bare minimum is two days. One day for Genoa and a half day for each village. More time would allow for relaxation and a more in-depth tour of Genoa. On a longer trip, combine it with a trip to beautiful Siena in Tuscany, historic Venice, or hop on a short flight to Sardinia.
Language
You’ll get by fine not knowing any Italian, even though many locals won’t speak more than a few words of English. But at least learn how to say thank you (grazie).
Money
Italy uses the euro. You shouldn’t need cash but carry at least some. Genoa is far more expensive than you’d expect. Being one of the least tourist-filled cities in Italy you’d think it would be cheap. But quite the opposite. That being said, hotels are far cheaper than places like Rome and Venice. Camogli is decently priced and Portofino is super expensive.
Travel insurance
Before visiting Italy, just make sure to purchase travel insurance so that you’re protected for the unexpected. We use World Nomads when we travel abroad. World Nomads provides coverage to travelers in over 100 countries. You can search for a coverage plan using the link below.
Genoa – The Heart of the Italian Riviera
The most prominent city of the Italian Riviera is Genoa, a city that surprised me in how big it was. It sure seemed like more than 575,000 people lived there! Situated on the coast with mountains in the background, it is most famous for being the birthplace of Christopher Columbus and pesto.
The city center is the largest still intact medieval city in Europe, full of narrow car-free streets and steep alleyways lined with bars, restaurants and shops.
When I visited Genoa I was lucky to get a personal tour of the city from a dear friend of mine, Serena Alessi, who grew up there. So while you probably won’t get driven around the city on a scooter by a local guide, you can still see most of the main sites in a day. Here I’ll go through the top things to see and do in Genoa and what to eat while you’re in town.
What not to miss in Genoa
Spiaggia di Boccadasse
Spiaggia di Boccadasse is Genoa’s own little Cinque Terre. This little cove looks strikingly similar to the famous villages at Cinque Terre. Fishing boats fill the bay with colorful houses along the shore. It’s arguably the most beautiful spot in the city and the number one stop you should make on your trip to Genoa.
Belvedere Castelletto
Head up to this view point on a hill for the best view of the city and the bay. You can reach Belvedere Castelletto by walking up a steep hill or by taking the special elevator. There are some benches to sit on and often children playing around, but really you just come here for the view.
Via Garibaldi
Via Garibaldi is a famous street in central Genoa lined with exquisite sixteenth century palaces. Genoa is particularly known for its palaces. You can enjoy the palaces from the outside and even tour a few of them for a fee. It’s open to service vehicles, but it’s mostly a pedestrian street so you can enjoy the palaces in peace.
Museo di Palazzo Reale
Museo di Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace Museum) is a grand 17th century palace containing a large collection of artwork. Did I mention that Genoa has a ton of palaces already?
Christopher Columbus’s House
This is a bit of a tourist trap. It’s just a little dilapidated stone house. But it’s the actual house that famous explorer Christopher Columbus grew up in. You can tour inside the tiny house for just 3 euros, even if there isn’t a whole lot to actually see. And I bet you thought he was Spanish!
Cattedrale di San Lorenzo
Cattedrale di San Lorenzo is probably the most beautiful cathedral in the city. It was founded in 1118 and completed between the 12th and 14th centuries. The architectural style is sort of a mix between Roman and gothic. It’s a small cathedral and only takes a few minutes to experience. No fee to enter.
Stops to make if there is time
- Piazza De Ferrari: The largest main square in the city, flanked with beautiful old buildings on all sides.
- Genoa Aquarium: This is the biggest and best in Italy. At 22 euros it’s not cheap, but it’s incredibly popular and busy. I put it in the “if there’s time” category because did you really go to Italy to go to an aquarium? It’s a good rainy day activity though.
- Castello D’Albertis: A gothic castle/house perched upon a hill full of various artifacts from the age of exploration.
Genoan and Ligurian Food
Genoa and the Italian Riviera have brought the world many culinary delights. The most common of these is, without a doubt, pesto. The green basil-based pasta sauce originates from Genoa and the region still has the best pesto you’ll ever have.
Sure, you can get pesto literally anywhere these days, but it just won’t be as good as the pesto made with fresh local basil and olive oil.
Genoa also brought the world focaccia. While not quite a household name, this pizza-like bread can be found at Italian restaurants and stores the world over. None will be quite as good as what you’ll have in Genoa though.
A good focaccia will be coated in olive oil and leave you licking your fingers. You can also find them covered in cheese, tomatoes, and a number of other toppings. For the best focaccia head to Panificio E Grissimeria Claretta. To be a true Ligurian, have it for breakfast and dip it in your cappuccino.
Some other delicacies to try would be farinata (chich-pea based bread/cake), pansoti with walnut sauce (typical Ligurian pasta is a walnut based sauce), or seppie in zimino (cuttlefish or seafood with swiss chard).
One thing to note is that Genoa is not known for salami, contrary to what American cold cut meat companies will have you believe. Why our salami is called “Genoa salami” we might never know. You can get incredible cured pork in Genoa, but it’s not really a local creation.
Portofino
Portofino was somewhere I had always wanted to go. You see photos of it and think it looks gorgeous. But nothing can prepare you for how spectacular this little village is in person. I had high expectations and was still blown away. It’s tiny, but simply stunning, the most picturesque of the Italian Riviera villages outside of Cinque Terre by far.
The village itself is no more than a few blocks of old houses and a small waterfront of shops and restaurants. There is no beach, just a landing area for boats at the cove. Above the village there are various villas and a few castles and churches, all tucked away in the mountains.
Posh
Portofino has a reputation for being a playground for Italy’s (and really the world’s) rich and famous. In the summer the cove is often full of private yachts. This has made the village very expensive for the average traveler. There are only a few hotels and they are ridiculously expensive luxury hotels.
If you’re a luxury traveler used to spending $1000/night on accommodation, sure go ahead. If not, you won’t be staying in Portofino. There are a few apartment rentals you might be able to get for $250/night if you’re lucky.
Portofino restaurants are also pretty pricey. You’re paying for the atmosphere. If you choose to eat in the village, check the reviews on google first, as many restaurants in town have very poor reviews. But it’s mainly people complaining about how expensive it was for mediocre food. That being said, it’s still cheaper than going to an Italian restaurant in New York or Boston.
Explore Portofino
Portofino can easily be seen and experienced in a few hours, especially if you’re not eating there. While the village is small, the highlight of your visit will be walking up to Castello Brown, where you get the famous view of the village you’ve seen on Instagram and in the cover photo of this post. It’s only about a half kilometer up the mountain from the village but it’s rather steep.
The castle itself is a little 16th century castle strategically located with views in all directions. It’s 5 euros to enter the grounds and you’ll need to do that to get the Portofino view. Note that in the off season from Nov-March the castle is only open on weekends
From the castle you can keep walking down the same path all the way to the end of the peninsula. There is a lighthouse there and you can see all along the Ligurian coast towards Cinque Terre.
You’ll also get some great views along the path as you pass extensive villas with gardens full of olive groves. In the summer there’s even a little bar at the lighthouse where you can enjoy a glass of local wine.
As you make your way back to the village there’s also a little church you can visit before heading down. Back in the village a walk along the waterfront is a necessity and it will only take you a few minutes. Wandering the few streets of Portofino will also just take a few minutes, as there are literally only two of them.
The famous villas of Portofino
Just outside of town there are numerous beautiful Ligurian villas on the coast. The most famous of these is a yellow mansion built basically out of the sea. When you Google image search for Portofino this house comes up.
You can see it from Baia Cannone and can walk there from town on the treacherous coastal road, or stop in the car on your way out. While the road to Portofino is super narrow and winding, we saw many people walking along it as there are no sidewalks or paths.
Get in and out
Your own vehicle is the best way to get to Portofino, whether that be by car or boat. If you drive there is a small garage that charges 3.50 EUR per hour for parking. If you have a boat then you can dock it for a small fortune. If you’re on public transport the only way to get there is by bus from Santa Margherita Ligure, which is connected by train to Genoa.
There are also numerous options to catch a boat from Genoa to Portofino. You can book one of these round trip boat transfers to Portofino on GetYourGuide. If you’re interested in a full day tour of Genoa and Portofino that includes a short cruise, you can book this full day tour also through GetYourGuide.
You can also visit Portofino as a long day trip from Milan. Many people who aren’t as keen to visit Genoa choose this option.
Camogli
Lesser known internationally than Portofino is Camogli, another beautiful coastal fishing village on the Italian Riviera. While not known as much to foreigners, it’s very popular with Italians. My friend in Genoa far prefers Camogli to Portofino. It’s less exploited and not full of yachts of Russian oligarchs.
Fishermen sell fish directly from their boats and there’s a pebble beach that’s full of sunbathers in the summer. Here you can also try a special type of focaccia from the nearby town of Recco, that is stuffed with soft cheese.
Camogli is also best reached by car or boat. From Genoa, there are a few different ferry options you can book to get you to and from Camogli. If you drive, there is free parking a few blocks outside of the village if you don’t mind a little walk.
What to see in Camogli
Camogli is a bit bigger than Portofino but still pretty small. Just about everything is located along the main promenade on the coast. There are some beautiful old buildings with colorful shutters that line the promenade as well as a few pebble beaches and some small inlets lined with little fishing boats.
There are not exactly a ton of specific sights in Camogli. The best thing to do is just walk the promenade and enjoy the views. But a few spots you can hit are Castle della Dragonara, the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta and porteciolli di Camogli.
Hike the Ligurian Coast
An awesome thing about Camogli that I was unable to take advantage of is that from the village you can hike all over the rocky Italian Riviera coast. You can walk to Portofino if you want. But a more popular hike is to Punta Ciappa, which is basically the end of a little rocky peninsula that juts out from the rugged coast. Along the way there are a few seasonal restaurants and points of interest.
The walk will take anywhere from 1-3 hours depending on how fit you are and how many stops you make. I went at the wrong time of year to do the hike but I hope to do it next time I’m in Liguria!
Seagulls and crowds
I had the craziest thing happen to me in Camogli. My friend told me to be aware that the seagulls were aggressive and not to leave my food sitting around. So I was sure not to do that as I was eating my focaccia on the beach. But then I’m going to take a bite and this giant seagull comes up from behind and snatches it right out of my hands! Like he had done it a million times before. Even my local friend was surprised at this level of aggression.
So lesson learned, do NOT eat on the beach in Camogli. Just don’t do it.
If you come in the summer, though, lunch on the beach isn’t even really an option. It’s just too crowded. It’s a very popular place for locals as well as people from interior cities like Milan to flock to on weekends. So the view in the photo below will look a bit different with a few hundred Italians in swimsuits on the beach!
Italian Riviera – Frequently Asked Questions
Is Amalfi the Italian Riviera?
No, Amalfi is not the same thing as the Italian Riviera. The Amalfi Coast is south of Naples and known for its mountainous coastline, picturesque towns, and lemon farming. The Italian Riviera is in northern Italy, though the coastline does have a lot of similarities.
What is considered the Italian Riviera?
The Italian Riviera is the coast of the province of Liguria in northwest Italy. It runs from the border of France to the border of Tuscany and includes many world famous sites such as Cinque Terre, Portofino, and Borgo Parasio.
Is the Italian Riviera or the Amalfi Coast better?
It’s hard to say what’s better, but the Amalfi coast is definitely more popular amongst international visitors. Cinque Terre, at the southern end of the Italian Riviera, is the most picturesque part of the coast and features some of the most gorgeous coastal villages you will ever set eyes upon.
Should I visit both Cinque Terre and the Amalfi Coast?
You should definitely visit Cinque Terre and the Amalfi Coast at some point, just not on the same trip. They are quite similar and not exactly well connected to each other. It’s best to visit one or the other and combine with something slightly different, like the inland villages of Tuscany or Naples and Pompei.
What is the best base on the Italian Riviera?
The best place to base yourself for exploring the Italian Riviera is Genoa. It’s right in the middle of the region and it’s the largest city in Liguria. However, it is not advised to “base” yourself anywhere if you plan on visiting all the villages along the riviera, as it would make far more sense to move in one direction, staying in a different village each night.
Final Word
The coast of Liguria will leave you wishing you had more time to explore. From the medieval city of Genoa to the gorgeous fishing villages tucked away on the coast between mountain peaks, this part of Italy has it all!
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[…] of the most beautiful small towns in northern Italy is the old fishing village of Portofino on the Ligurian Riviera. In modern times, the sleepy little coastal fishing village has evolved into a getaway for […]