When you think of Italy, you might think of ancient cities of stone buildings, fresh pasta and delicious wine. You might also think of beautiful beaches of crystal clear water with mountains coming out of the sea.
If the latter is more important to you, then you are going to love the Gulf of Orosei on the Italian island of Sardinia. An epic coastline of mountains and hidden beaches, the Gulf of Orosei is one of the most stunning natural places in Europe.
There are still plenty of historical old villages with narrow allies and hidden plazas in Sardinia. It’s not quite Tuscany, but if you’re coming to Sardinia, you’re coming for the beach. We spent 3 nights in Sardinia in mid-May and wished we had booked longer.
In this post I’ll go over how to explore the Gulf of Orosei and the best beaches and things to do on the northeastern coast of Sardinia.
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Gulf of Orosei – What You Need to Know
What is the Gulf of Orosei?
The Gulf of Orosei is a spectacular national park on the Italian island of Sardinia. It’s incredibly mountainous and features some of the most stunning beaches you’ll ever see.
Where is Sardinia and the Gulf of Orosei?
Sardinia North of Tunisia in the Mediterranean Sea between the Italian mainland and Mallorca, Spain. The Gulf of Orosei is in the middle of the east coast of the island.
How to get to the Gulf of Orosei
You will most likely be flying to Sardinia from somewhere else in Europe. There are two main airports: Olbia and Cagliari. These airports service many destinations within Europe. Most of the flights are seasonal, but some of the more major routes, such as Milan, Rome, or London operate all year.
If you’re coming to Sardinia from another continent, you’re going to need to transfer at least once. Your best bet is to book your Sardinia flight separately from your overseas flight and look for a cheap flight on a discount airline from a main hub in Europe.
Once you get to Olbia or Cagliari, renting a car is the easiest way to get around the island. For the best deals on rental cars we use Rentalcars.com. You can book your rental from Olbio Airport using the search bar below.
If it’s your first time driving in Europe, be sure to check out my tips for driving in Europe first.
Getting to the Gulf of Orosei is a bit trickier. There are no roads along the coast and very few developed roads in the park. The main way to see the coast is by boat, and there are a few hiking trails through the mountains. We will go more into detail on this a bit later.
When to go
Sardinia is one of the few places in Italy you can go and enjoy not being overwhelmed with American tourists. But be careful when you go so as to not be overwhelmed with Italian tourists.
While not as popular with international travelers, Sardinia is a very popular summer getaway for Italians. You’ll also find plenty of tourists from northern Europe there.
If you want to avoid super crowded beaches go in the shoulder season. We went in May and the weather was great for the beach, even if the water was cold. May, June, or September would be my recommendation.
Where to stay
There are two main areas you can base yourself in for visiting the Gulf of Orosei: to the north and to the south. To the north is Cala Gonone, a small town on the beach.
To the south you have Santa Maria Navarrese on the coast and Baunei a bit inland. Baunei is a gorgeous little village. It’s in the mountains with a fantastic view of the coast and it was easy to get to the hiking trails in the interior of the park from there.
For a small village, there are a ton of hotels and apartment rentals in Baunei. Hotel Goloritze is a great option for anyone wishing to visit the Gulf of Orosei and Cala Goloritze, the famous hidden beach we will discuss later.
If that’s booked up there are many other options in Baunei on booking.com.
How long to stay
You’ll want to stay a minimum of three nights. But it depends how long you want to chill on the beach and how far you’re coming from. If you want to explore the entire island then add at least a week onto your itinerary.
Language
Most people who work in hospitality will speak at least some English, but outside of that don’t count on being able to communicate with the locals unless you speak Italian.
English is less prevalent here than on the mainland. But you won’t have any problems, as the island’s main economy is tourism.
Sardinian Food
There is a local pasta for Sardinia – Sardinia gnocchi. It’s like a mixture between gnocchi and pasta, but it’s more like pasta than gnocchi. It just looks like miniature gnocchi. They like to slightly undercook it, so I found it tough and after ordering it the first time specifically asked the restaurants to make it well done.
Get it with wild boar ragu. Sardinia is also known for its wild boar, and we went to a restaurant to specially get the suckling pig. Honestly though, I was disappointed with the 12-hour roasted boar and would stick to the gnocchi next time.
Gulf of Orosei Weather
The climate here is pretty mild in the middle of the Mediterranean, with hot summers (perfect for a dip in the sea) and a pleasant shoulder season.
Skies are usually clear, but it’s a very mountainous island and the mountains can create their own weather, so thunderstorms are common. You’re gonna have great weather though, so don’t worry.
Money
Make sure to carry Euros in cash and don’t depend on card payments in this part of Italy. In general Sardinia is pretty cheap. The island receives far less foreign visitors than mainland Italy so you won’t find all the overpriced restaurants you’ll get in places like Rome and Florence.
Travel Insurance
Before visiting Sardinia, be sure to purchase travel insurance so that you’re protected for the unexpected. We use World Nomads when we travel overseas. World Nomads provides coverage to travelers in over 100 countries. You can search for a coverage plan using the link below.
A Scenic Drive to the Gulf of Orosei
The drive to Baunei at the southern part of the Gulf of Orosei takes about three hours if you don’t stop. For us, it took about two hours to get through some small villages and then through the granite peaks of the northern end of the national park. From there it was like driving through the Rockies and it doesn’t feel like you’re on a small island in the Mediterranean.
The road twists and turns as you climb up and down steep mountains, a goat crossing the road here and there. It’s simply a stunning drive every way you look.
The route we took to Baunei is shown below, including stops at some of the most beautiful beaches in all of Italy.
Gulf of Orosei Boat Trip
The highlight of your trip to Sardinia will be the all day boat trip along the coast of the national park in the Gulf of Orosei. If you do one thing on your trip to Sardinia, do this. Of all the boat trips I’ve done throughout the world – and that includes the Napali Coast in Hawaii, the Phi Phi Islands in Thailand and the Great Barrier Reef, among others – this remains my favorite.
Book a cruise with Fuoririotta Charter
We pre-booked an 8-hour tour from the town of Santa Maria Navarrese with Fuorirotta Charter, and I cannot recommend them more. They have a 4.9 star review rating on Google from over 100 reviews and once you’re back from the trip you’ll wonder why it’s not a perfect 5.0.
They exclusively do cruises along the Gulf, so they are the most knowledgeable guides to go with. The cost of the tour was remarkably affordable. At only 70 Euros it was a bargain for an all-day boat excursion, especially one in such a gorgeous location. And with that cost you also get a fresh seafood lunch, snacks and a bottle of wine (1 bottle per two people). If that sounds too good to be true I can assure you it is accurate.
Cruise up and down the stunning Gulf of Orosei
We set sail in the morning and cruised past granite peaks that came right out of the ocean. Passing small hidden coves and secluded beaches, most only accessible by boat, we eventually made our first stop at Cala Mariolu, a little cove along a steep cliff that looked like something out of a spy movie. I couldn’t believe my eyes with how gorgeous this place was.
We scrambled along rocks to little pebble beaches and eventually took a dip in the water. It was cold but worth it. As part of the tour we got to spend significant time at the beaches we stopped at, so we really had time to relax and enjoy the scenery at these isolated beaches.
A seafood feast
We pulled into a few small coves and swam in some calm, deep portions of the gulf before our lunch was ready. I was expecting some basic lunch so I was thoroughly impressed when we were brought a bucket of fresh shrimp along with mixed seafood pasta and a bottle of local wine.
The lunch was truly amazing and our guide assured us the seafood was all caught fresh that morning. I still dream of eating fresh seafood on a boat off on the Gulf of Orosei!
After our epic seafood lunch we were off to swim in the Pools of Venus, which is basically a deep area of calm, clear water up against a steep cliff. From there we cruised to Cala Sisine, about the furthest we would go, and got to spend a significant amount of time chilling on the beach working on our tans.
This stop gave us some lovely views when we climbed some rocks to look out over the beach. Again, could have stayed here forever but we had to get back. The cruise back was mostly nonstop, and before we knew it it was 5:00 in the afternoon and we were back in town.
Other tours of the Gulf of Orosei
There are of course tons of other boat tour operators along the Gulf of Orosei. So if you want to shop around check out all the options on GetYourGuide here.
Hike to Cala Goloritze
The next best thing to do in the Gulf of Orosei park is to get into the mountains and do some hiking.. There are a few trails, but without a doubt the most popular and most beautiful is the hike to Cala Goloritze.
You’ll see this beach from your boat tour, but you won’t stop at it. So it’s the perfect place for a hike to a secluded beach! Most of the drive from Baunei is dirt road, but eventually you’ll end up at a large parking lot where the hike began.
As one of few places to hike in the park, the carpark will probably be pretty full. I can imagine a parking spot being tough to find in the summer season, so be sure to get there early.
From the carpark it’s about a 3.5km hike to Cala Goloritze, a beautiful hidden beach tucked between giant granite peaks. The way to the beach is mostly downhill, so you’re uphill on the way back. There will be a lot of other people there so you might have to search to find a secluded spot, but you’ll find one.
The Beaches of Northeast Sardinia
Northeastern Sardinia is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in Europe. Outside of the amazing beaches in the Gulf of Orosei, the coast is loaded with splendid stretches of sand and turquoise water.
I had seen photos of the beaches in Sardinia, but the perfectly clear water still blew me away. That light turquoise color in the sea is what people come here for.
The water is shallow, which gives it that color, similar to a lagoon in the ocean, like the beaches in Turks and Caicos. It’s hard to say, but it might have been the clearest water I’ve ever seen.
On top of the clear water, the Sardinian beaches offer something that you don’t usually see at most beaches in the Mediterranean: sand.
While there are plenty of pebble laced beaches, in Sardinia you will also find many beaches of fine sand. With the soft sand and clear water if it weren’t for the giant mountains surrounding you, you’d think you were in the Maldives!
If you go to Spiaggia Porto Taverna you get a Maldivian looking beach but with the granite peaks of Isola Tavolara in the background, which make it a truly unique beach experience in my opinion. How often do you get to see a mountain like that with your beach view?
Top 3 beaches to visit along the Gulf of Orosei
There are too many beaches to list but the three beaches below are are top ones you should consider stopping at. This list focuses solely on the beaches between Olbia and the Gulf of Orosei that are accessible by car.
- Porto Istana Beach – this was our favorite beach. It’s quite and chill, with the clearest water you can ever imagine.
- Spiaggia Porto Taverna – for an amazing view of island mountains beyond, head to this beach. It’s a bit more crowded than the other two I’ve listed here, but worth it.
- Brandinchi Beach – a super shallow lagoon with a sandy shore where you can enjoy a cold beer with a splendid view.
One more recommendation
Northeastern Sardinia is also home to some beautiful smaller islands. The most beautiful of these is quite possibly the Maddalena archipelago. These islands are north of Olbia and came in a close second when we were deciding on our itinerary.
We didn’t make it here but the photos from my friend who visited look simply amazing. You’ll need to take a short ferry to get there, but you could easily spend your entire time there. There are tons of beaches with that famous Sardinian water and you won’t get bored.
Gulf of Orosei – Frequently Asked Questions
How do you explore the Gulf of Orosei?
The best – and really the only way – to explore the Gulf of Orosei is by boat. You can hike to some of the isolated beaches, but you’ll miss out on a lot of amazing things if you’re not on the water. There are plenty of boat tour operators in the region to take you around.
What side of Sardinia is the best?
The east side of Sardinia is a bit more rugged and beautiful, with the best beaches being found along the northeast and northern coasts. Though everywhere in Sardinia is gorgeous so no matter where you go you will be happy.
What airport do you fly into for Sardinia?
There are two airports on the island of Sardinia. These are Olbia and Cagliari. Olbia is in the north and Cagliari is in the south. Both airports are well connected to major European cities but don’t take transcontinental flights.
How many days do you need in Sardinia?
You need at least 3 nights to properly experience Sardinia. 7 nights would be better if you have the time. It’s a unique island with a lot of different things to do and many amazing places to explore. So the longer you can spend, the better.
Final Word
The Gulf of Orosei in northeastern Sardinia is truly a special place. When I think of the most beautiful coastline I’ve ever seen, it’s hard not to think of that boat trip in Sardinia. Sure, the Amalfi Coast and Puglia on mainland Italy are spectacular. So are the fjords of Norway and the Algarve Coast in Portugal. And that’s just Europe, let alone the Gulf of Thailand or Palawan.
Maybe it’s the ruggedness of eastern Sardinia that stands out for me. The emptiness of the landscape, nearly completely untouched by humans, save a few small beaches here and there.
It’s hard to go anywhere in Europe and avoid seeing some sort of manmade structure, and I think that’s what made Sardinia so special for me. It was the best of both worlds.
We got to explore isolated spots on a coast where mountains come right out of the sea and soar above the beaches below. But we were still in Italy and could have an Italian dinner with fresh local wine that same day. It’s everything I ever wanted in a vacation. So enjoy your trip to Sardinia and if you do make it on that boat trip let me know how you found it!
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