The Nkhoma Mountain hike is one of the best and most accessible hikes in all of Malawi. It’s also one of the easiest for tourists to do on their own without major obstacles or dangers. In this article I will explain everything you need to know to have a great hike at Nkhoma Mountain, one of the best hikes in Malawi.
Nkhoma Mountain is just southeast of the capital city of Lilongwe. It’s not the largest mountain in Malawi by any stretch of the imagination, but it is the most striking peak in the region immediately surrounding the city. It’s very doable as a morning hike if you’re in Lilongwe for work or pleasure.
I did the hike when I was in Lilongwe for a week of work. As you may know if you’re a regular reader of my page, I work as a structural engineer on US embassy construction projects. So I was visiting a job site in Lilongwe when I had the opportunity to take a break from work and get some hiking in.
I also had the benefit of having a friend who lived in Lilongwe for 7 years help me plan my trip and organize a friend of hers to hike with me. You probably won’t have that, but don’t worry. I’ll provide you with all the info you need here to have a safe and enjoyable trip to Malawi and an amazing hike on Nkhoma Mountain!
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Nkhoma Mountain Hike at a Glance
- Round trip distance: 3.1 miles (5 km)
- Difficulty level: Moderately strenuous
- Total elevation gain: 1640 ft (500m)
- Estimated hiking time: 2-3 hours, depending on level of fitness and how many stops you want to make
- Trail starting point: End of a bumpy dirt road here
- Trail condition: Mostly well maintained but harder to follow near the peak
- Opening times: year round
Essentials
Hiking with a local
It’s not necessary to do the Nkhoma Mountain hike with a local, but if you’re by yourself I’d recommend finding someone to go with you. This is not a hike in Colorado or Italy by any stretch of the imagination. This is a rural part of Africa with little mobile reception, and while there are no lions and leopards roaming around this part of Malawi, it’s still not advised to do this hike alone.
So how do you go about finding someone to go with you? Well, that’s a bit tricky. If you don’t know anyone in Malawi that won’t be easy. And local tour companies don’t offer guided hikes of Nkhoma. You can try inquiring at your hotel or guesthouse, or contacting one of the tour companies and seeing if someone would be willing to take you off-the-books.
In general, Malawians are very kind and trustworthy. But if you feel uncomfortable about going with a stranger who is not representing a tour company on official business, then perhaps this hike is not meant for you, unless you find a friend to hike with on your travels.
Travel insurance
Before you head to Malawi, it is strongly advised to purchase travel insurance so that you’re protected for the unexpected. We use World Nomads and had a good experience the one time we unfortunately had to actually use it. You can search for a coverage plan using the link below.
Vaccines and mosquito-borne illness
You might know this already but it’s a good idea to be up to date on your vaccines before going to sub-Saharan Africa. While no vaccines are required to enter the country (with the exception that yellow fever is required if you are coming from a country with yellow fever requirements), consult a travel doctor before your trip to Africa to ensure you are protected from some preventable diseases.
On top of routine vaccines like polio, measles, and hepatitis B, you should strongly consider getting vaccinated for the following before your trip:
- Yellow fever
- Hepatitis A and C
- TDAP
- Typhoid
It’s also advised to get a prescription for oral anti-malaria medication to take during your trip. Malaria is a disease you do not want to mess with! There have been cholera outbreaks in Malawi, but if you’re very careful about what you drink and eat you don’t have to worry about cholera.
There are other mosquito borne illnesses that you can’t prevent with vaccines and medications, such as dengue fever, so you also should be vigilant about preventing mosquito bites. Use mosquito spray with at least 25% deet and wherever possible, cover your arms, legs, and feet.
The mosquitos are not terrible on Nkhoma mountain, but they still exist and it’s advised to hike in a light long sleeve shirt and hiking pants.
For more information on vaccines and disease prevention in Malawi, refer to the CDC webpage or your country’s health ministry.
Other things to know about Malawi
There is a lot more to learn about traveling to Malawi than I cover in this post. But I have a detailed list of Malawi travel tips and things to know here (Malawi travel tips article coming soon!!).
How to Get to Nkhoma Mountain
Nkhoma Mountain is one of the most striking peaks in the vicinity of Malawi’s capital city, Lilongwe. If you’ve already decided to visit Malawi, the first step will be getting to Lilongwe. Once there, Nkhoma Mountain is about an hour southeast of the city and there are a few different ways to get there. The route passes through numerous small villages, but is entirely on paved roads until the very end.
Getting to Lilongwe
Lilongwe is located in central Malawi, about 2 hours west of UNESCO World Heritage Site Lake Malawi. It’s not exactly the easiest city to get to, but there are direct flights from major international hubs like Johannesburg, Nairobi, and Addis Ababa, as well as a few other local destinations. Only African airlines fly to Malawi and you cannot get a flight there from any other continent.
This means that unless you’re coming from one of these “nearby” African cities you will have to layover somewhere. I booked a one-stop flight on Ethiopian Airways from Washington DC to Lilongwe. Ethiopian only flies to a few American destinations, but is well connected to Europe, Asia, and the rest of Africa.
The Lilongwe Kamuzu International Airport is quite north of town and you will have to either arrange transport or rent a car yourself to get into the city. Most hotels and guesthouses offer a transfer service, so enquire with your accommodation about that and they will be happy to help.
Self-drive
Believe it or not, driving in Malawi is pretty easy. Unlike many other underdeveloped nations, Malawians follow road rules and drive safely (for the most part). It’s perfectly safe to rent a car and drive yourself to Nkhoma Mountain. Just make sure you have directions mapped out or printed ahead of time, as mobile reception is sporadic outside of Lilongwe and the roads are not exactly well marked.
In Malawi you drive on the left, a relic of the British colonial days. Paved roads are not in amazing condition, but they’re not as terrible as you might think. A lot of roads are not paved as well. And they don’t really have motorways. Basically, you’re not going to go too fast in your car.
There are not a lot of car rental options in Lilongwe, but Avis operates out of Kamuzu International Airport. You can also book with SS Rent a Car, who has decent reviews.
One important thing to note here is that petrol is not always easily available in Malawi. Gas shortages are common and people will line up for hours to fill their cars up. It’s not something you can really predict, so just know that if you have a rental car you might have issues filling it with gas. If the rental company has an offer to fill the vehicle upon return with overpriced petrol, it might be worth it.
Hire a driver
By far the most convenient and comfortable way to get to Nkhoma Mountain is to hire a local driver. It’s not cheap, and will cost you more than a 1-day car rental, but the peace of mind of going with a local who drives around Malawi as a job can be more than worth it. There are plenty of private drivers in Lilongwe who mostly work with expats and business travelers.
I used this option and paid $80 USD for a driver for the day. As I said, it’s not cheap, especially in a poor country where most people live off of $1 per day. But it made the most sense for me, and I had a trusted friend recommend the driver for me, so I knew I was getting the best deal possible.
You can inquire with your hotel or guesthouse about drivers, or you can contact my driver, Andrew. Andrew runs a small private driver business in Lilongwe and will happily organize transportation for you. He has a few employees and my driver picked me up and dropped me off at my guesthouse. He even did the Nkhoma Mountain hike with me since he’s done it a few times before and I didn’t see any point in him sitting in the car waiting for me, which was his original plan.
Andrew can be reached on WhatsApp at +265 999 342751. Mention you are interested in doing the Nkhoma Mountain hike and your times and he will give you a rate depending on your location and time. Andrew and his drivers are trustworthy and reliable. You’ll be in good hands!
Public transportation
Lastly, there is the option to take public minibusses to Nkhoma Mountain. This is by far the cheapest option, but it is also by far the most uncomfortable and difficult. You’ll be packed in a small bus with a dozen Malawians in not the best conditions. But you will get there.
Planning your route in a public minibus is actually not too challenging. There are direct minibusses from Lilongwe to Nkhoma village and they take about an hour and a half. Buses leave from the Bus Depot. You can find its location here.
Getting to the bus stop on time to catch the minibus will be your biggest challenge. You’ll be looking for the bus marked NKHOMA-KAMPHATA, but its schedule is not exactly reliable or clear. You should inquire with your guesthouse about bus schedules when you visit for the latest information.
Where to Stay When Hiking Nkhoma Mountain
Nkhoma Mountain is an ideal day hike from Lilongwe, but it’s also possible to spend the night in Nkhoma village, where there are a few guesthouses. Let’s start with Lilongwe though.
Where to stay in Lilongwe
Malawi doesn’t exactly have name brand hotels. There are some pretty nice places to stay, though. If you were expecting cheap accommodations given how poor Malawi is as a country, prepare to be shocked. Hotels and guesthouses are not cheap when compared to other developing countries you might have been to. Each of the hotels listed here run over $100 USD per night.
I stayed at both Kumbali and Wendell’s when I was in Lilongwe. Along with Burley House, they came recommended to me by my friend who lived 7 years in Lilongwe. Kumbali is the nicest, and also most expensive hotel in Lilongwe. It’s at the edge of town and only reachable on a bumpy dirt road. It has an exclusive feeling. I mean, it is where Madonna stays when she’s in town.
Wendell’s is a more laid back, small guesthouse run by Tom, an immigrant from Germany who fell in love with Malawi in the 1990s and never left. It only has 8 rooms and has an informal booking system. But it’s a lovely place to stay and Tom and his wife Mel are great hosts. Tom also cooks up a killer beef stroganoff!
I have not stayed at Burley House but it also came highly recommended by my friend. It has a lovely garden area and even has a small gym.
Where to stay in Nkhoma village
Your options in Nkhoma itself are limited and are far less comfortable than the nice places in Lilongwe. These options are considerably cheaper than staying in Lilongwe (like $15-25 per night) though.
The Nkhoma Synod Guest House is run by the CCAP Christian missionaries and has 8 rooms. The building was originally used as a school until it was converted in 2000. As of this writing, it’s unclear from my friends in Malawi how exactly to book this in advance. Your best bet is to contact the hospital on their Facebook page and inquire.
Across the street you will find Hope’s Inn, run by a charity that is dedicated to preventing Severe Acute Malnutrition (SAM). 100% of your fees go to the charity when staying at Hope’s Inn.
A little bit further up the road you’ll find the Mbawa Lodge. I’m unclear on how exactly to book this in advance. You’ll have to show up to book a room on the spot.
Camping
It’s also possible to camp at Nkhoma Mountain or stay in the mountain hut. Just beware of hyenas at night (see section below about wildlife) if you’re camping outside. There are a few primitive, but designated campsites. Most of these are near the mountain hut, with one of them being at the top of the mountain.
One campsite is at the mountain hut itself and 2 others are only about 100 meters away. These are first come first serve camping sites and offer no amenities (the hut is your place for amenities). If you do decide to camp, you shouldn’t have a problem finding a spot to pitch your tent. Just remember what I said about the hyenas.
The Nkhoma Mountain Hike
Now that we’ve gone over some background information let’s get into the specifics of the Nkhoma Mountain hike itself.
Where the Nkhoma Mountain hike starts
The Nkhoma Mountain hike starts from the end of a bumpy gravel road at the edge of Nkhoma village. Nkhoma is a typical Malawian village with the exception that it has a hospital founded by missionaries on top of numerous schools and guesthouses. Those are things you don’t find in a typical Malawian village.
The road to the start of the hike can only be described as bumpy as hell. If you’re driving a rental car, I strongly advise not to go down this road. Instead, park in the village where there is a small parking area for Nkhoma Mountain hikers. This will add about 500 meters to your hike each way, but it’s worth it. The road is so bumpy you have to drive at snail’s pace anyways, so it’s probably quicker just to walk it. After parking, walk towards this spot to start the hike.
There is no actual sign for the start of the hike. The hike is not on AllTrails yet, though as of April 2024 I have added it and I’m waiting for it to get approved. If you zoom into the area on AllTrails, however, you will see the trail. I’ve shown the route in 3D on Google Earth view in the image below.
Leaving the village, you will pass one last house with some chickens on the right and then the road will sort of taper off. For a few hundred meters it will look like a 4×4 road as the vegetation clears and you’re out into the open. From here, it’s clear that you’re on the path and you shouldn’t get lost.
The two peaks
There are actually two peaks at Nkhoma Mountain. Nkhoma is the main one, rising to 5,718 ft (1743m) above sea level. Mbalambala is the other peak, at 5,480 ft (1671m). The duel peaks give it the nickname “the two-headed mountain” locally. It’s possible to hike to the top of Mbalambala, but most people skip that in favor of Nkhoma.
This article focuses on the hike to Nkhoma peak so following this you will only see Mbalambala from a distance. If you have more time and are up for an adventure though, you can add it onto your hike. It will add about an hour or two onto your total hike.
Length of hike
The total length of the Nkhoma Mountain hike is only about 3.1 miles (5 km) round trip (not including the walk from the parking area to the edge of the village). You don’t cover too much distance. But don’t be duped into a false sense of security. Over that 2.5 km climb to the top you’ll gain 1640 ft (500m) in elevation.
Most of that elevation gain is in the latter half of the hike. The first half is pretty mild, slightly uphill with a few steep parts. But once you pass the Nkhoma Mountain hut, the trail becomes really steep and requires moderate rock scrambling.
Fitness Level and trail difficulty
You don’t need to be super fit for this hike, but the latter half will be quite difficult if you’re not in decent shape, given how steep it is. You’ll make it though. Just might not be too enjoyable of an experience.
Most of the trail is easily followed. In fact if you go to satellite view on Google maps you can see the trail. It’s not marked with any sort of signs, but it’s clear where the trail is. It’s a dirt trail with rugged vegetation on each side.
There is some rock scrambling near the end of the push towards the peak, but it’s not difficult. Though note that the scrambling might make it tough for small children. This is really not a hike for kids under about 10 years old.
Once you hit the mountain hut the dirt trail continues for a bit before you reach a point where you are basically looking straight up the mountain. From here it’s less defined where the actual path is, but there is only one way up, so it’s not like you’re going to get lost.
General Trail Description
The distances I’ve provided in this article start from the edge of town, just past the last house in the village. If you park where I suggested, however, add another 500 meters each way.
The beginning of the hike is a gradual uphill on an old dirt road. You’ll see Mbalambala straight ahead and Nkhoma off to your right. After about 20 minutes or so you’ll take a right turn towards Nkhoma. The trail gets a bit steeper here, but still moderate, as you weave your way up to Nkhoma Mountain Hut.
The hut is a basic overnight hut where you can spend the night. It has some basic cooking supplies and cots to sleep on. You are supposed to book it ahead of time, though as of this writing it’s still unclear how exactly to do that without the help of a local. You’ll have to inquire with someone in the village. Your best bet there is the hospital, where they will speak English.
I wouldn’t recommend staying in the hut, though. The hike is short enough and huts are really more for locals than tourists.
Once you pass the hut there is a moderate grade on the trail until you reach what can only be described as a giant crack in the mountain. From here it’s a very steep trail that is not well marked, but is not hard to follow as there is only one way up. It’s clear enough to tell you’re on the beaten path.
After maybe 15-20 minutes of intense uphill climbing with some moderate rock scrambling you’ll reach a grassy area and be looking straight up at Nkhoma peak. There is not really a trail from here on out, so it’s up to you to choose the path of least resistance for the last few minutes of the climb until you reach the summit.
Views along the way
The best views along the trail are from lower on the mountain before you reach the hut. From the trail you get a view of Mbalambala and some funky desert-like vegetation and trees. At this point, looking back at Nkhoma village is not too exciting. The best views on this trail are definitely at the top.
The view from the top
At the Nkhoma summit it feels like you can see all of Malawi. There is a 360 degree view of the surrounding countryside and the outskirts of Lilongwe. The perspective from the top of the mountain really makes it clear how undeveloped Malawi really is. You can see numerous little villages from here, most with just dirt roads and mud brick houses.
What I found most amazing at the peak was that I could hear people singing in the village below. Maybe it was the way the wind was blowing that day, but I could clearly hear what they were saying. It wasn’t in English so I didn’t understand it, but it was amazing how far the sound traveled. My driver said it’s quite common for people working the fields to sing as they work.
Typical weather at Nkhoma Mountain
Malawi is characterized by two seasons: the dry season and the monsoon season. Dry season lasts from about mid-April to November and monsoon season is from November to mid-April. Temperatures remain pretty consistent year round. The daily high averages between 22 and 27 degrees (70-81 F) in peak dry and wet season, respectively.
Those temperatures are for Lilongwe but Nkhoma village is essentially the same. At the top of the mountain it is typically windy and significantly colder, but you’re only at 1743m so it’s still pretty comfortable.
In the dry season it’s likely to be sunny and in the monsoon season it’s likely to be rainy, naturally. I definitely would not recommend this hike in the monsoon season. I did the hike in the transition period in late October and it was pretty cloudy, but no rain.
Wildlife
While this is in fact Southern Africa, you’re not going to find the Big 5 around Nkhoma Mountain. That sort of game is found elsewhere in Malawi, but not here. So you’re not in danger of being lunch for a hungry lion or anything like that.
That being said, there are still wildlife dangers to look out for. The biggest concern here is snakes. Snakes are all over rural Malawi, and yes, they are poisonous. If you get bit by a snake you need to rush down the mountain to Nkhoma Hospital as fast as you can. Don’t worry though, spotting a snake (or a snake spotting you) is not too common, especially in the dry season when you’ll be hiking.
Other than snakes, you might see some stray dogs. After that it’s pretty much just lizards and bugs and other small critters.
If you spend the night at the hut or decide to set up a tent somewhere on the mountain then you have to worry about hyenas. These freakishly ugly beasts are nocturnal predators and have been known to prowl the slopes of the mountain. You do not – I repeat DO NOT – want to come face to face with one of these guys! So if you’re spending the night on the mountain, avoid walking around after dark.
Alternate routes
There are alternate routes to Nkhoma peak, none of which I recommend. But you can come from the north starting in the village of Chicanga. You won’t find this village on google maps so refer to the map below.
This route is actually shorter than the route from Nkhoma village. I don’t recommend it, however, due to the inconsistent trail. There is not much of a marked trail and it’s hard to follow, with overgrown bushes and steep slopes.
If going this route, you’ll want to enlist the help of a local villager to go with you. These will mostly be middle school or high school aged boys. They might not speak much English, but they’ll be happy to help, as you should tip them at the end for their services.
Final Word
The Nkhoma Mountain hike in central Malawi is a lovely way to spend a day or a half day when visiting Lilongwe or elsewhere in central Malawi. The hike has its challenges, but is not too strenuous or difficult. Follow the basic precautions discussed in this article and I’m sure you will have a great time!
