Have you ever wanted to experience what it’s like to be Santa Claus, but without the hassle of having to deliver all those presents? Luckily for you, reindeer sledding is a real thing in Arctic Norway!
You might not fly through the air like Saint Nick, but reindeer can run pretty damn fast. And if you’re looking for somewhere unexploited to go and avoid the ever increasing crowds of Finnish Lapland, just across the border in Kautokeino, Norway offers a suitable alternative for your arctic adventure.
Add onto this Europe’s longest dog sledding race – the Finnmarkslopet – comes right through here in early March and brings all sorts of festivities to the village, including reindeer racing (yes that’s a real thing), and you’ve got yourself a pretty exciting stint in the Arctic!
If you’re lucky you might also get to see the Northern Lights, one of nature’s true wonders. So if this sounds like fun to you, read on to learn all about how to visit this region of Norway and become Santa for a day.
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Reindeer Sledding in Kautokeino – What You Need to Know
Where is Kautokeino?
Kautokeino is a small village in northern Norway, well above the Arctic Circle. The closest city with any sort of significant population is Tromso, though the town of Alta, about 2 hours north, has roughly 15,000 inhabitants. The closest major city is Helsinki, Finland, a solid 14 hours drive south.
How to get to Kautokeino
Getting to this region of arctic Norway is not as difficult as you might think. The closest airport is in Alta, 2 hours north. Norwegian Air and SAS each offer multiple daily flights from Oslo to Alta. Alternatively, you can fly to Tromso (there are direct flights from London) or Lulea, Sweden. Each of those destinations will leave you with about a 5-6 hour drive to Kautokeino.
We flew to Lulea and did the drive north as part of a 5-day arctic road trip (see map below), also spending a night in Finland and a night in Sweden. Renting a car is essential in this part of the world. See below about driving in the arctic.
You can view and book rental cars from the Alta airport here and from the Lulea airport here.
Weather and when to visit
For being well above the Arctic Circle, it’s not nearly as cold in Kautokeino as it is in places like Edmonton or Minneapolis. Winter temperatures will stay below freezing all day unless there is a heat wave, but we’re talking more -10 to -2 (14 – 28 F) and not -25 (-13 F) like a winter day in Minnesota. A good pair of thick socks and you’re golden.
In terms of clear skies, it’s hit or miss. Winter days are often a mix of clouds and sun with snow being pretty frequent. During the Polar Night the sun never rises, but there is a significant amount of light throughout the day. Think about how beautiful the sky can be after a sunset. Up here that just lasts about 5 hours.
The ideal time to go to Kautokeino is in early March when the Finnmarkslopet dog sledding race comes through town and the sun actually rises for a few hours a day. The exact dates of the race vary every year, so you’ll have to check the Finnmarkslopet website to know the schedule ahead of time. There are many festivities in town during the race, including concerts and reindeer racing.
By March, the days have gotten longer and the snow is at peak mass from a winter of snowstorms. If you want to go to Arctic Norway in the summer, I don’t recommend going to Kautokeino, though. I would definitely go to the Lofoten Islands instead.
Language
Norwegian is the official language and it is a very difficult language. I’ve been to Norway six times and still don’t know how to say hello or thank you in Norwegian. Luckily, the Norwegians are arguably the best English speakers in the world, even including the Native English speaking countries. Even up here in the middle of nowhere you shouldn’t have any issues communicating in English.
Food
To put it bluntly, Norway is not known for its food. Ideally, you will be staying somewhere with a kitchen and you can cook your own food. There are limited restaurants in town and they are pricey, including Pit Stop Cafe, Alfred’s Kro, and Restaurant Duottar inside the Thon Hotel.
So if you can, bring your own food from abroad and cook yourself. If you don’t have room to bring your own groceries, the Extra (local supermarket) is pretty big and has everything you’ll need. Try some reindeer jerky.
Money
Norway is one of the most expensive countries in the world. If you’ve never been before, the prices can be shocking. It is a very rich country with a highly educated population and vast natural resources, all leading to a high cost of living. If you’re from a large North American city like New York or Toronto, though, you won’t feel like it’s too much more expensive than home.
Another factor in deciding to fly to Lulea, Sweden instead of Alta, for us, was the car rental was significantly cheaper. Norway has its own currency, the Norwegian Kroner. You don’t technically need cash, but operators of reindeer and dog sledding prefer to be paid in cash.
Driving conditions
If you have never driven in snow before, this trip is probably not for you (or you are going to have to learn quickly). All rental cars have special snow tires though, so grip to the road is incredibly good and it’s much harder to lose control of the vehicle than with normal tires.
Chances are it will snow at some point on your trip and you will have to deal with it. They are very good with plowing the roads up here so you will never have to drive on thick snow though. Be sure to also check out my guide to driving in Europe before your trip.
Where to stay
There are limited accommodation options in Kautokeino and it’s too cold to camp. There are a few rentals on Airbnb. We stayed at a cabin we rented on Airbnb at Eira Siida As. However, it was a bit difficult as there was no running water in the kitchen and the bathrooms were about 50 meters away, meaning we had to trek through the cold to get there.
As for hotels, there is one hotel, the Thon Hotel that goes for about $180 USD per night. There are a few other options near the village. You can check out these options at booking.com here.
How long to stay
You will ideally want to hit Kautokeino as part of a longer trip through the Arctic, so stay a minimum of two days, especially if you want an epic reindeer sledding experience. But not more than four days unless the skies are clear and the northern lights are dancing.
The Northern Lights
This is prime territory for viewing the aurora borealis, more commonly known as the Northern Lights. There is not much light pollution up here so if the aurora is strong and the skies are clear you will see the lights. Be sure to check out my article on the Top 10 Tips for Seeing the Northern Lights before you head to this part of Norway.
Travel Insurance
Up in the Arctic it’s advised to have travel insurance when visiting. We use World Nomads when we travel internationally. Word Nomads provides coverage to travelers in over 100 countries. You can search for a coverage plan using the link below.
Kautokeino and the Surrounding Region
Located at a latitude of 69 degrees north, Kautokeino is a good 330 km (205 miles) above the arctic circle, meaning it experiences the Polar Night and the Midnight Sun. In the summer, the sun rises on May 20 and doesn’t set until July 23. In the winter, it sets on Nov 30 and doesn’t rise again until January 11.
There is not a whole lot outside the town, just endless herds of reindeer and a few structures on the side of the road here and there. The next closest town is Hetta, Finland, about an hour south, and Alta is two hours north on the highway. You are really in the backcountry here. It’s a true remote arctic wilderness.
Unlike most of Norway, there are no mountains in or near Kautokeino. It’s not flat, but there are no towering rocks until you get to the coast in Alta. The rolling hills of boreal forest provide the perfect breeding ground for reindeer, who roam the hills (and sometimes the street).
There are many herds of reindeer in the region and if you drive up and down the highway to Alta you are almost guaranteed to see some wild reindeer. Driving is the only way to get around. Well, that is, unless you have a snowmobile!
Reindeer Sledding in Kautokeino
The highlight of this trip is, without a doubt, reindeer sledding with a traditional Sami family. The Sami are the indigenous people of Arctic Scandinavia, and the go-to guy for reindeer sledding in Kautokeino is my man Aslak Sokki at his company Sokki Adventure. He charges about $100 USD for the adventure and payment is made in cash.
Aslak’s family traces back thousands of years in this region. These days he runs his own reindeer sledding and Sami cultural experiences. It’s easy to get in touch with him through this website so be sure to send him a message before your trip to plan something.
Unfortunately, when we were there he didn’t have time to prepare a traditional Sami meal for us (part of typical package). He was pretty busy with the Finnmarkslopet festivities. So if you take my advice and do this trip around the race, you’ll probably have the same issue. But fear not, he did have time to pick us up in his snowmobile and take us to his reindeer farm for some reindeer herding and sledding!
Reindeer herding
The first thing he’ll tell you when you get to the farm is that you have to lasso your own reindeer if you want to sled. If you don’t have any cowboy skills, better learn fast. Aslak will teach you how to work a lasso but he won’t catch a reindeer for you. Don’t fret though, everyone eventually snags one. Their antlers are quite massive so it’s not hard to grab a hold of one.
The Reindeer Sledding Track
There is an oval-shaped track at the farm where you will ride the reindeer sleigh. Aslak will set up the sleigh on the reindeer you caught and teach you how to ride it. It’s not difficult, but you don’t want to fall off.
You’ll want some photos and videos of yourself riding the sleigh I’m sure, and Aslak is just the man for the job. Give him your phone or camera and he’ll take dozens of great photos and videos for you. You’ll get to race around the track a few times. The speed you go at will depend on which reindeer you get. If you want a faster – or slower – experience you can ask to be hooked up to a different deer.
Reindeer sledding is super fun and totally worth the price of admission. If you have come all the way up to arctic Norway you do not want to miss the chance to be Santa for a day!
Sami culture
The last part of the adventure will be a little history of Sami culture in a traditional Sami teepee. The Sami are the indigenous people of Arctic Scandinavia. They have lived for generations as nomadic reindeer herders (and many still actively practice reindeer herding). These days they have cell phones and houses just like any other modern human in Norway, but they keep many of their traditions alive.
Similar to native Americans, the Samis built tipi-like structures called lavvus. These lavvus were easy to construct and tear down, as the Same were nomadic. An entire family used to live in one small lavvu, all sleeping together to stay warm.
The Finnmarkslopet Dogsledding Race
The Finnmarkslopet is the longest dog sledding race in Europe and one of the longest in the world. Similar to the Iditarod in Alaska, “mushers” direct a team of 14 dogs across hundreds of miles of snowy terrain over the course of two weeks. Most of the contestants are Norwegian, but people from all over the world come to compete in this race.
The race
The race is held entirely within the Finnmark region of northern Norway. It’s the top of the world, essentially. There are three different races, as you can see on the map below. The two longer races come through Kautokeino on the second day. The racers will take a break, feed the dogs, and fuel up on high carb food before moving on to the next stop.
There are a few locations in town to see the dog sleds in action. There are some soccer fields across from the Thon Hotel that serve as the resting stop for the racers. This will be the best place to see the race, as the dogs will be fresh and rested as they depart the soccer fields. Our photos for the racers are from this location.
Reindeer racing
While there are other festivities like snowmobiling and concerts, you’re probably going to be most impressed by the reindeer racing. Did you even know that was a thing? But there is a reindeer racing track on the outskirts of town and races will be going on all day while the dog sleds are passing through.
Spend a few hours watching the contestants race their reindeer around the big track. The races are just one lap and over in about a minute, so they are quite exhilarating. The racers ride behind the reindeer on skis like they’re water skiing in the Caribbean. Many of the races are just high school kids. Imagine growing up somewhere that reindeer racing was more popular than track and field?
The reindeer racing event usually has a decent audience and there is hot coffee provided to keep warm. There are also people selling sausages and other warm treats. You’ll enjoy just mixing in with the locals at the best reindeer racing event in the world!
Dog Sledding
The Finnmarkslopet might make you feel like doing some dog sledding yourself. In Kautokeino there is no real place to do this unfortunately. The nearest place to ride a dog sled is about an hour south to Hetta, Finland, where you’ll find Hetta Huskies. They offer various dog sledding experiences ranging from 1.5 hours to 8 days.
Or for the best dog sledding experience, head to Kilpisjarvi, Finland about three hours away, where Destination Kilpisjarvi will take you on a wild dog sledding experience across a frozen lake with beautiful huskies.
It’s a truly exhilarating experience, similar to reindeer sledding but longer and slower. And the dogs are so damn adorable too. Stick to the short dog sledding safaris unless you really want to feel what it’s like to be a dog sled racer and do an overnight experience. Try to book a few days in advance if you can.
Chasing the Northern Lights
This region of Europe is prime territory for catching a glimpse of the Northern Lights. The aurora borealis is one of nature’s wonders and is exhilarating to see in person. The lights dance across the sky in shades of green and sometimes red and purple.
I’ve dedicated an entire article to my top tips for seeing the northern lights, so be sure to read that. Below we will just go through a quick summary of the tips.
1) Don’t expect to see them
Arctic winter weather is notoriously cloudy and you need clear skies to see the northern lights. Manage your expectations so that you are not horribly disappointed if the lights never peek through the clouds. I spent three nights in Kautokeino and didn’t see a break in the clouds once.
2) Book a longer trip if you can
The longer you stay in the Arctic, the more chances you have to see the northern lights. If you just go for 2-3 nights you should not expect to see them. For the best chances, give yourself a week.
3) Understand the Kp index
The Kp index is a ranking system from 1-9 that basically tells you how strong the solar winds are and how likely it is that the northern lights will make an appearance. My northern lights tips article explains the Kp index in detail.
4) Download an aurora tracking app on your phone
I use My Aurora Forecast when I’m in the Arctic and I suggest you download it too. The app gives you the Kp forecast as well as cloud cover forecast and an aurora map.
5) Plan your trip for a new moon and get out of town
You need the skies as dark as possible for the Northern Lights. If you can, plan to visit the Arctic during the new moon. Similarly, the further away you get from light pollution, the better. Luckily Kautokeino is so small it will only take you a few minutes to get away from street lights. The highway between Kautekeino and Alta is great to drive up and down in search of the lights.
6) Dress appropriately
Arctic winter nights are cold, and you’ll be outside quite a bit if you’re photographing the northern lights. Come prepared with adequate clothing, hats, gloves, and hand/feet warmers.
7) Stay up late
The best lights often appear in the middle of the night. If the skies are clear and the aurora forecast is good, you should consider staying up late to search for the lights.
8) If the clouds are thick, it’s not worth it
Cloudy nights in the arctic usually stay cloudy. If the weather isn’t cooperating, get some sleep and hope for better weather tomorrow.
9) Have a good camera
A quality digital camera is essential for photographing the northern lights. I go into detail on northern lights photography in my northern lights tips article. Also be aware that your eyes will not see the lights as bright as your camera. Northern lights always look sharper in photos than they do to the naked eye.
10) Drive yourself around
I also recommend people to rent a car and drive themselves around, as it gives you maximum freedom. It’s also nice having a running vehicle to keep you warm. Many people would rather have an expert show them around though, and that’s understandable.
Kautokeino is small and doesn’t have any specific northern lights tours. There are, however, northern lights tours from nearby Alta. You can check out and book a northern lights tour from Alta on Viator here.
Final Word
If you make the journey up to Kautokeino, Norway to catch the Finnmarkslopet and do some reindeer sledding you will surely be rewarded with a memorable experience, not to mention some amazing pictures. You might also get a sight of one of nature’s true wonders, the Northern Lights.
